沙漠及修枝 Desert & Pruning

沙漠+杨树修枝

Desert + Poplar Pruning

English

沙漠

塔敏查干沙漠

“白色魔鬼"

“塔敏查干沙漠”自奈曼旗东部伸入到库伦旗，曲折蛇行入科尔沁左翼后旗境内，呈东西走向，在库伦北部坨甸区的南沿，长约60公里，宽约5公里，海拔250米—300米之间。
塔敏查干是蒙古语“白色魔鬼"的意思。塔姆意为是狱，塔敏是塔姆加词缀表示所属in构成，查干的意思是白色，也指沙漠，这个意思在地名里常见。

沙漠风光

“八百里瀚海”

在这浩瀚的沙海中，植被稀少。除其腹地生长的黄柳条、沙蒿、骆驼蓬等少许沙地植被外。一概是金光灿灿的明沙，有的沙丘高达70—80米，连绵起伏，广裹无际。在酷热的夏日，沙漠深处偶而会出现“沙市蜃楼”的奇观，或楼台殿阁，或都市风光，绡纵即逝，如梦如幻。

杨树修枝

修枝是一项重要的栽培技术，广义上的修枝可以分为整形、修枝和清干3种作业。

整形

获得通直饱满的树干

剪去影响顶梢生长的竞争侧枝

清干

减少无价值的消耗

清除修枝后出现的萌条

修枝

获得无死节的良好木材

清除主干上的部分侧枝

为什么要修枝？

减少侧枝对主干的抑制作用
促进杨树健康生长
培育干型圆满的优质木材
减小幼年林风阻
降低杨树成活风险
改善林地内光照条件
为其他植物生长提供空间
优化林下农作物与树木的竞争关系

根据库伦的实际情况，我们选择4月份（萌芽前）进行

何时修枝？

开始年份：栽植后第三年

秋冬两季（生长期外）
好处：不易感染病虫害
坏处：容易在修枝口处萌发新枝

春季（生长期内）
好处：修枝伤口易愈合
好处：抑制修枝口萌发新枝

操作方法病枝、折断枝、枯枝等非正常枝条也需要及时修剪

第1—4年林地

保留更多的枝条促进生长，树冠占树高的3/4
早修除双主干或多主干中较劣的主干
修除过旺生长的大侧枝（竞争枝）
修除主干下部萌生的枝条

第5—8年林地

保持树冠高度大于树高2/3(至少保留4轮枝条)
每年修除一轮枝条及其上部的竞争枝
每年修除主干下部萌生的枝条

8年以上林地

枝下主干的高度达到8米之后，尽量不再修枝

修枝工具

安全第一

修枝剪

修枝锯

修枝位置

要求：切口平整，不撕裂周围树皮

A 留茬过长，容易形成死结
B 留茬适中
C 留茬过短，容易撕裂树皮
 

以下的修枝正确吗？

这是我们第一队的修枝地点！

Desert

Taminchagan Desert

"The White Devil"

Stretching from the east part of Naiman Qi, the Taminchagan Desert crosses the borders of Kulun Qi, then touchs Keerqinzuoyihou Qi in the east. It is a belt-shaped sandy land corridor, 250-300m in elevatioin, 60km long and 5km wide. 
In Mongolia local language, Taminchagan means "the white devil". Tam means hell and -in is a common affixes. Chagan means white, also means the white sandy lands, which is common seen in toponym. 

The desert view

”Eight hundread li sandy land"

In this desert, the vegetation is scare. Beside sandy species such as salix, Artemisia desertorum and harmel, bare sands can been seen a lot. Some sand dunes stand 70-80 meters tall and roll far. In hot summer, mirage can be spotted occationally in the desert's heart. 

Pruning for Poplars

Pruning is an important cultivation technique. It includes the reshaping, pruning, and sprout cutting.

Reshaping

Ensure the trunk grows straight

Cut off the competing lateral branches

Sprout Cutting

Reduce unnecessary consumption

Clear regenerated branches

Pruning

Foster a larger diameter of solid wood

Clear branches in the trunk part

Why pruning?

 effectively reduce the strain of the branches on the trunk
helping the trees to grow bigger
 fostering aesthetically pleasing logs
reduce wind resistance for under-mature forest
 improve the survival and growth of trees
allow more lights into the forest
offer more space for other vegetation
 improve the competence between crops planted among trees

According to the local condition, we prune the poplars in April (before new sprouts grow). 

When to prune？

Starting: Third year after planting

Autumn & Winter (not growing season)
Pro: Less insect infection
Con: Branches will grow from the cuts

Spring (growing season)
Pro: Easier for cuts to heal
Con: Restrain new branches from cut

What to prune?Branches that are sick, injured, broken or dried-out shall also be pruned.

For forests 1-4 years old

Leave enough branches for further growth, the crown should be 3/4 of the tree height
Cut off the worst branches from the double or multiple trunks, leaving one straight and strong trunk
Prune the thriving big branches (competing branches)
Prune those sprouts in the lower part of the trunk.

For forest 5-8 years old

Make sure to leave the crown at least 2/3 of the tree height (leave at least 4 layers of branches)
Each year cut off the new layers of branches, the competing branches
Each year cut off those re-generated branches in the lower part of the trunk

For forest >8 years old

 When the trunk under the crown is taller than 8 meters, no pruning is needed.

What are the tools?

Safety First

pruning shears

pruning saws

In what parts to prune?

When pruning, cuts should be smooth, without scarring the trees or leaving pieces of torn bark.

A) Stubble too long, form knots
B) Appropriate
C) Stubble too short, easy to tear off barks
 

Which is correct?

This is our pruning site!